Well, we blew out of Peryiar early to avoid the demonstrations that seem to be getting uglier and more violent with each passing day. Our hotel was right on the border of where the worst of it was, and the natives who were getting restless, were also starting to get unruly. As we headed back down the hill we saw many buses and motorcycle gangs heading up to support the cause, we were glad to be heading home.
Cate making rubber |
On our way back to Kumarakom we stopped for a planned lunch with a “Christian” Indian Family. The family lived on a beautiful rubber plantation on 15 acres, with 1800 trees. We drove up the long driveway that had lion heads at the gate, and arrived at a beautiful plantation house built in the 1890’s. Every generation that was alive was there to greet us and we took our positions as “foreigners”. The patriarch took us around the plantation and showed off his Rubber trees, tapped them for us, and showed us how he collects and makes the rubber. He grew up on this plantation and his father built the house. He is the grandfather of the woman that cooked for us and she looked to be my age. We saw his garden with pineapples and tapioca and every kind of tree: cocoa, papaya, cinnamon, mango, nutmeg, banana, lime and coconut. He walked us down to the lower section where the rice fields were and showed us where prepares the rubber to send to the rubber making plant. He spoke beautiful English and was so interesting to listen to.
When we came back up to the house, lunch was served and we were told to wait while they set up the table. Hollie told me, “Mom, there are only two seats at the table” – I waved her comment off thinking that just couldn’t be. I mean, there were easily 15 family members present; they certainly weren’t just going to feed us! Ahhhh, but we are in India – expect the unexpected…
They call us over for lunch and sure enough, there is our table under the nutmeg tree, with two seats. Circled around the table are the family members we are to entertain for the next hour. Hollie and I look at each other knowing this is another opportunity to stretch ourselves – though our limbs are so long at this point I’m not sure we can take anymore. The food they brought out was exquisite, and by far the best food we have had on this trip. There was only one problem, how do you entertain and eat at the same time? What about the rule don’t talk with your mouth full? They all stared at me, waiting for words of wisdom from the foreigner. The matriarch, Grandma, filled my plate with delectable eats; but I was at a loss as to how I was supposed to eat it! Hollie sat across from me struggling with all the attention – she was sweating more than I’ve ever seen and it wasn’t just because of the heat. Every time she took a bite they would put more on her plate. They finally asked her if the food was too spicy because her face was so shiny with sweat; they even moved her more to the shade, but it didn’t help. Lucky for her they did not expect any answers out of her and she remained silent…thanks a lot.
So, all conversation was left to me, and I was expected to eat my food, show pictures and tell of all the wonders of my country. I found I was still capable of talking and eating the fish – it could be chewed two to three times them swallowed. My trouble came when they asked me to have some chicken – the chicken here is on the chewy side and there is NO WAY to talk and eat chicken. Meanwhile, as I struggle along – more and more family members would come out of the house and I would have to reintroduce myself and show the same pictures and tell the same stories. In the end there was four generations of a VERY Catholic family standing around the table, all the while I’m supposed to be eating and enjoying the food they made for us. My chance to swallow came when we were shown the many traditional outfits worn by the Kerala woman. Luckily there were enough of them to not miss an outfit and we have seen most of them during our stay here – but I took the opportunity to let them do some show and tell.
My only regret is that we did not get a photo of Hollie and me sitting at that table surrounded by our new friends – it would have been priceless, but alas we didn’t have the wherewithal to be that proactive. We were in survival mode.
After pineapple and banana dessert (boy a serving of chocolate fudge brownie cake would be welcome at this point…), we went to take family photos with the great, great grandmother – (I’m sure if we stayed longer we would have discovered a great, great, great hiding in there somewhere…).
We finally said our goodbyes and returned to our car for the long drive home. They waved us off as we drove gratefully down the driveway wiping the sweat from our brow.
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